Harper's Ferry sport/trad trip

  • Saturday, September 04, 2021
  • 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
  • 0

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Harpers Ferry is a extensive and somewhat complex area with different kinds of climbing.

Multipitch Trad and Aid, overhanging Sport climbs, Top Rope, and lots of bouldering and sometimes lots of adventure.

 

The main event is the multipitch climbs on Maryland Heights with routes anywhere from 5.2 PG to 5.10C R

Most routes are 2, 3 or 4 pitches depending upon where you belay.

Hard Up or Hard Up Direct at 5.8 is the classic route on "The Sign"

 

Mountain project has a lot of good info, but there are also some really good routes not listed.

 

Also on the Maryland side of the river are Balcony Rock and Balcony,Jr.

About 70- to 80' of steep top rope or bolt enhanced Trad.  Not full-on Sport climbs.

Both cliffs face south and with the black rock and can get very warm during the summer.

 

High up on Maryland Heights is Skink Rock. A bit of a hike for a 30' / 40' cliff, but worth it if

only for the memorial Carpet Crack. Carpet Crack and a few of the other lines can be done on lead.

Oh, My Eyes has been "retro bolted" so it can be done as lead climb as well as a top rope.

Long anchors are necessary to rig most top ropes at Skink Rock.

 

Loudoun Heights is the West Virginia side of the Potomac River and has its own unique access and parking problems.

Almost anything on the various parts of Loudoun Heights : Split Rock, Chimney Rock, Chestnut Arete are lead climbs.

 

Parking is either in the Lower Town part of Harpers Ferry National Historical Park or at the main Visitor Center entrance off Rt. 340 one mile west of the 

bridge over the Shenandoah. There is a $20 per car entrance fee for either location, so if you ever climb at Great Falls or Shenandoah, this is a good time to think 

about purchasing an Annual or Lifetime Pass.

 

https://www.nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/parking.htm

 

https://www.nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/fees.htm

 

We will meet at the Train Station at 8:30.  The lot fills up early on weekends.

If you park at the big lot at the Visitors Center the free Shuttle Bus will bring you into Lower Town

just a short walk from the Train Station.

 

I will help coordinate directions and how to find your way around for those not familiar with the area.

And depending upon the interest of climbers who show up  I may be able to run a couple of shuttle services

to help with getting around and with the limited parking outside of the National Park.






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