Regional Crack Climbs

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  • Monday, October 14, 2013 10:34 PM
    Message # 1412386
    Deleted user
    Although I'm definitely not the first to begin a discussion on the region's best crack climbing, I haven't seen a focused discussion in a single location.

    Here are my key criteria:

    * Crack--20 continuous feet of crack that is generally climbed without face holds.

    * Regional--three hour drive from DC that could be a day trip (that includes Seneca).  Yes, I know the New has phenomenal crack climbs, but it's a bit far for a day trip. 

    Here are a few thoughts to get the discussion started:

    -- Marshalls to Crack of Dawn (5.9 to 5.10a: Seneca)

    -- Strawberry Fields (5.9: Old Rag)

    -- Premature Ecrakulation (5.9: Indian Graves Ridge)  

    What else is out there within the parameters mentioned above?
  • Tuesday, October 15, 2013 12:01 PM
    Reply # 1413248 on 1412386
    Deleted user
    PATC Wall, Old Rag - a full day's worth of crack climbing; I can think of 8 cracks from 5.7-5.9 that fit your criteria.

    (yes, I can respond to posts here, but still don't see how to create a new post...)
  • Tuesday, October 15, 2013 12:07 PM
    Reply # 1413255 on 1412386
    PE at Indian Graves would kinda barely fit that bill.  There's definitely some face moves you make down low around the thin part of the crack to really gain the crack above when it widens out.  That said, as you well know it's a super-fun line and it is thin fingers down low for a couple moves which is pretty cool.
  • Tuesday, October 15, 2013 10:33 PM
    Reply # 1413612 on 1412386
    Deleted user
    Hey Mike,

    So what would those cracks at the PATC Wall be?

    I'm still dying to get on Bushwhack Crack and Oh My God Dihedral, though the latter may not necessarily fit the criteria.

  • Thursday, October 17, 2013 3:04 PM
    Reply # 1415138 on 1412386
    Deleted user
    Well, do you have a copy of Horst's guide? Look at the PATC (aka Skyline) Wall section - Piton Crack, PATC Layback, Rusty Bong, Fern Crack, Dobie Gillis, #10 Hex Off-width, Crackback, plus others not in the Horst...


    P.S. Why would 'Oh My God Dihedral' not qualify? It's ALL crack, overhanging, exhausting...
  • Thursday, October 17, 2013 10:49 PM
    Reply # 1415419 on 1412386
    Deleted user
    Thanks for the insights Mike. Fair point about OMGD.

    I do have the Horst book and have been to OR several times, though haven't been on all of the classics.

    This partially leads me to get other's comments.

    Thoughts on any other non-Old Rag crags that have nice cracks given the parameters?
  • Sunday, October 20, 2013 4:52 PM
    Reply # 1417393 on 1412386
    I think your parameters are rather tight. I can't think of any route at Seneca that is a pure crack. MM is not, I don't believe COD is either. 

    If the criteria is broader in that the climb needs to be done using primarily crack techniques (jams, laybacks) then the list is decent. I would add:

    Critter Crack
    Climb'N Punishment (mostly jamming, and long, though feet do a lot of stuff)
    Scuttle (mostly jamming)
    Triple S (lots of stemming, but also jamming from hands to fingers and chimney

    Pond Bank
    Mr Gutwrench
    Nasty Crack
    Pigs in Space
    probably a bunch more

    Harper's Ferry area
    Skink rock has some, although I haven't been there

    Mark Maier

  • Monday, October 21, 2013 8:43 AM
    Reply # 1417944 on 1412386
    Deleted user

    Fair point.  Let's broaden it to include using primarily using crack techniques as you suggested, which would put COD clearly in the mix.  Like Traffic Jam, one can use the arrete if they don't have crack technique, but then using the arrete wouldn't really be considered crack climbing.

    Haven't got to Pond Bank yet, so will check out those that you listed.

  • Friday, November 08, 2013 5:25 PM
    Reply # 1430976 on 1412386
    Hi Kelly & co,
     I was climbing on the 'Rocky Islands' of Great Falls today and got on a few routes worth adding to your list of local crack climbs:

    -Applause 5.6, hands-fists.  This route needs some serious TLC.  Bring your brush & gardening tools.
    -Rock and Roll 5.7, fingers-hands.  Best route on this cliff.  Even has some old pin scars!!
    -Rocky Road 5.9-, some hands.

    Check out the PATC Great Falls Guide for beta.  Belaying from the top of the cliff works well here.  Trad gear was helpful for making anchors.  The Rocky Islands don't see much climber traffic, so anticipate some dirt, moss & lichen.

    The river is low and it's not too cold yet; get out there while you still can!

  • Friday, November 08, 2013 6:07 PM
    Reply # 1431013 on 1412386
    Deleted user
    Hey Doug,

    What type of rock is it?  Is it the same schist on either side of the river?  

    To be honest, not sure that I would want to lead on that type of rock.

    Thanks for the contribution.

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