Trip Report: Ice Climbing in the Daks, March 1-4 2010

Bill Dudley and I headed up to the Daks Monday afternoon. We stayed in Lake George that evening. It's about an hour away from Chapel Pond. This saves time by not driving past ice climbing areas to find lodging. Note, the only the Super 8 motel ($66 w tax, wifi) was open in this area. Most are closed for the season. We do recommend the buffalo wings at Jude's Tavern with 10+ seasonings to try.

Tuesday morning we headed to the Chapel Pond area. The recent snow storm was quite apparent. Many of the ice climbs were partially snow covered.  Bill post-holed through the snow on the lake to our first climb Crystal Ice Tower. We were going to climb the additional pitches above called White Line Fever but soon realized any WI2 areas or ramps were covered in a foot or more of snow. We aborted the rest of the pitches and headed to the canyon. We hit Lions on the Beach, Hot Shot, and Positive Reinforcement. The non-snow covered ice was good. The plastic nature of the ice made for good holds with the axes. While in search of housing that evening, we stopped by a few places along the way. In particular, 'The Hostel' in Keene Valley might be good for future PATC-MS trips. It had 10 single beds, 1 double bed, two bathrooms, a small kitchen area and an eating area and a living room plus wireless?. Cost was $25/person. Tent spaces were also available for less. We ended up staying at the Ark Trail Inn (also $66 w tax - no control of heat in room, no AT&T coverage, no TV in room but...there is wifi and a nice TV in the lobby you can watch and the guy is a really nice guy)

Wednesday we headed to the north face of Pitchoff. This time we strapped on the snow shoes for the 20 minute approach. I requested to do a multi-pitch since we bailed on the previous climb yesterday. On our first climb, Bill led the middle line on Central Pillar. Unfortunately, my fear of heights got the best of me on this one. I barely made it up. The last pitch was only WI2-3 and somewhat snow covered so we rapelled down. Next, we hit Arm and Hammer. Our last climb of the day, was Moss Ghyll (Bill thinks but isn't sure). Although, mostly a WI3, there was a 15 foot section that was easily WI4 with water running behind it. Bill did a great job leading this section. Note, the ascent to these climbs is steep for about 100ft or so. It's best not to wear snowshoes for this. With the deep snow, we sometimes were knee deep (or thigh high deep if you're short like me). On our way out at sunset, a local Daks photographer got pics of Bill and I with the mountains and snow backdrop. He was just out taking pictures of the scenery and preferred to take people in motion. We're famous! or, maybe not. We crashed at the Cascade Inn (once again $66 w tax - VERY noisy heater, but does have cell coverage and TV) that evening. Even if the owners are not there, just use the phone inside the vestibule to call. They'll answer and take a credit card # and direct you to where the keys are for the room.

Thursday, we headed on an adventure to find Chillar Pillar. Note, it's located north of Wilmington close to the Whiteface Memorial Highway. Just before going through the pass, there's an obscure dirt road/trail on the right. If you see signs for the snowmobile trail, you've gone too far. There's no real parking area, so just make one. It's a 5 minute approach. It's a stellar looking 4 but unfortunately it is in the direct sun and didn't appear to be safe to lead. Luckily, Bill brought a top rope so we each got a lap before heading home. To get to the top, scramble up the hill on the right. There are mixed routes to the L and R. One to the R is bolted. Unknown difficulty. 

Note - Bill heard that there was a huge crack across the top of Poke-O's Waterfall route so that appears to be done for the season. He says Roaring Brook Falls probably won't last long either.

Lora P.