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By Daniel L
Greetings to fellow PATC climbers,
Eric Boesch called me Friday evening to take me up on my offer to get
out and climb this weekend. The weather was not as nice as last
weekend, but it was passable this past Saturday.
Those of you who have been climbing with me lately know that I've been
obsessing about a particular line I've been wanting to lead. Neil
suggested that it may have been climbed before but the ascent not
recorded in any of the guides, so it may or may not be a first
ascent. I had done it on top-rope several times, but never could
summon the courage to lead the line until yesterday.
Simply climb the first part of "Hard-up" until you reach the high left
anchor with webbing hanging on it. From there, follow a pair of
diagonal cracks up the face know as the "Sign Route". In the middle
of the face, there is a large chunk gone visible from the ground.
Here, place a few pieces and run it out straight up the face over a
bulge. You'll make several tough moves and then move up 5.6 to 5.7ish
terrain passing a horizontal crack that takes gear and ending up on a
ledge with a small tree with a crack behind it. From here, the
climbing isn't so great, but not difficult to finish if you can find a
line with decent pro.
Eric tells me that according to the Indy's guidebook, there is a small
bolt off to the left of the run-out with higher quality terrain above
it.
Anyhow, it was a great day of climbing and you can all thank Eric for
belaying and following me on this cool route so that you don't have to
put up with me fussing about the cool route that I wanted to do but
never did all winter long.
I'll say it goes at about 5.10C R. By Seneca standards, it might
marginally be considered PG, but very heady. It's the coolest trad
route I've climbed at Harpers so far and as cool as any line I've done
at Seneca. Five stars. If anyone knows anyone looking to put out new
information for a new guidebook or a new edition, I'd definitely like
to see this line cataloged.
Good luck and climb on!
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