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Home arrow Rock Climbing arrow Rock Trip reports arrow Harpers Ferry TR : Aug 2009
Harpers Ferry TR : Aug 2009 PDF Print E-mail

By Scott Hartsock

Friday August 7 Christina Cox and myself met at the MRAC station parking lot in Harpers Ferry ($6 if you dont have a national park pass). I had gotten there a little early, and had already walked over to the information center/ranger station to check in( you must do this or they will "rescue" you and fine you). We crossed the pedestrian bridge, and climbed up some "steps" out of the canal.

Searching around we found the path up to the rocks climbers right of the ruined white house. (you should put your helmets on here, there are lots of loose rocks, and you are under a high traffic area on the top of the rocks) and worked our way up to Hard UP (5.7-5.8 depending on who you ask, I say 5.7). The route is pretty strait forward, climb up to a set of bolts (very new and in good shape with a sling and rap rings(slings are starting to look iffy)). I chose to clip the bolts sport fashion and move on to the right to the end of the second pitch and another set of anchors (also in great shape with iffy slings).

From here I brought Christina up and I started my second pitch by going strait up next to the sign. You work your way up onto a ledge, and then continue to a second ledge that is full of loose boulders.

From here I climbed the chimney thru mucho loose rock. be very careful what you put your hands and feet on here, as much of it will blow of at any moment. I ended the third pitch (my second) at a tree with a rope sling (no rings) and another set of bolts with a 8' rope strung thru it with rap rings for the decent down (be VERY careful with this rope, as it was pinched between a tree and rock when I got there, and it had created a soft spot that I removed from the system with a butterfly knot) Also be careful on your descent as the rope/sling goes over a large rock that is no longer attached, and if you pull it loose on your way down, you will be eating it.

We were using double ropes, so we were able to hit the ground in one rappel, but there end of the second pitch is directly below the rap anchors, so it can be done with one rope and two rappels.

At this point the sun had started peaking around the rocks, and it was starting to get very warm (black rocks and sunlight uggh). We headed back to the office, checked out and started walking back to the cars. We were stopped by a family in a van that asked if we were just climbing the rocks and if they could take our picture. Not wanting to let down our fans we obliged, and gave them an email address so that they could send us the pics (we are still waiting for those).

Important things of note:

  • wear a helmet, there is tons of loose rock
  • these climbs use a lot of nuts and small cams
  • do it early in the morning or when it is cool out 

With that said I will be heading out there again to get in a few more routes later this fall, hope you all can join me. 

Scott

 
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