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Home arrow Ice Climbing arrow Ice Trip Reports arrow Adirondacks: Chapel Pond Canyon-Midnite WI3+
Adirondacks: Chapel Pond Canyon-Midnite WI3+ PDF Print E-mail

tn_DSC01754.JPGThe weather in Lake Placid returned to winter at midmorning when the snow stopped, the wind increased to 30 mph and the clouds disappeared Feb.08, 2009. Wayne Stone and I parked between Chapel Pond and Roaring Brook and walked up and into Chapel Pond Canyon with an eye on Haggis and Toast WI3+ and Midnite WI3+. The familiar calf burning ordeal of the approach on NFOPO was reminiscent of the pain we experienced on this relatively minor approach.

We dropped into the canyon and looked on in wonder on how much the ice had changed in 4 weeks. To say the ice was fat is accurate. Positive reinforcement was so fat, too bad I climb that every time I come into the canyon. The ice there is 100 feet of ice from 3 to 4+. The ice is exceptionally thick from left to right with the right side corners filled in nicely; we kept walking. Sniff-sniff

 

We pulled up to Quinn the Eskimo and Midnite. I began Quinn the Eskimo (my roy gap chimney CPC-lol) and backed off to get started on the adjacent Midnite 3+. The images with point and shoot cameras don't provide the depth of field aspect. In other words, the climbs are much steeper and deeper than they appear in the pictures. Where a mixed start usually begins the route, the ice had filled in this great climb. Hidden from the canyon floor, the narrow start is easily missed to this secret ice garden. Once you climb through this sometimes rocky gateway, this elusive start open to a formidable WI3+ finish, the 55m pitch is an impressive pump. In the very steep section of the last third to the top, I still can't EVER imagine leading ice this steep as steep stuff like always invokes the Nat-Geo theme music in my little head and it gets loud. Once at the top of this route, I was so curious to continue on as it appears to level out and the trees thin to possibly a high glade. Maybe someday I'd make it up there from Quinn! This route is awesome to TOP ROPE, but someone has to lead it of find a way from Quinn. A group of Canadians were top roping this thing 4 weeks ago and if you climb up a bit to the little ledge above the rocky start you can TR from a better and secluded vantage point. The Rappel was a bit awkward but no one died! Great climb.

It was nearly 230 when we decided to seek Haggis and toast. We started on down the canyon when the trail returned to the familiar crotch deep snow and tibia snapping ankle traps hidden underneath. This was too much like the day before so we decided to bail back up the canyon.

We passed a Canadian party of five climbing on Positive Reinforcement enjoying the day, all without helmets which were all still strapped to their packs on the ground. When I made a comment about helmets, I quickly whipped around to see if the antichrist had suddenly appeared behind me because of the scowl from the one portly climber; "see you on the evening news", I said to myself, LMAO!

Wayne and I had decided it was too late to return and drink coffee and too early to experiment with single malt whiskey, so we headed up the canyon to top rope something. I remember I met this party 4 weeks ago who put in a snap ring and anchor on this steep steep series of 3 ice pillars, with the prominant Steep ice pillar. Wayne walked up the ramp and threw down a top rope. We took turns running laps on 40 feet of vertical ice and we got pumped. I ran up and put in a directional and climbed the other side of the pillar.  You can practice delicate vertical ice if you aint into leading something this stiff at the end of the day; and if you can set up all three pillars, but only one has a cordalette and snap ring ready to go. I included this short clip to point out landmarks in case people were interested in setting up this accessible little test piece. We had enough, packed up, walked back down and out of the canyon to highway 73 and our car...another great day.

Another area close to Chapel Pond is Spanky's Wall. We used the small turnout south of Round Pond/Dix trailhead parking lot; the climbs are pretty much between these two lots. From the turnout, cross the creek and work your way up to the climbs using the link and the guidebook.

Ate at the Carribean Cowboy!!!! Great Food!

VINCENT PENOSO

 
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